My washer makes a lot of noise on the last spin cycle. Is that normal?

The machine is a Kenmore Elite Sensor Smart Three-Speed automatic Washer with Catalyst. Model No. 110.20092993, Serial No. CK 4906829, Type: 111 I am a mechanic and capable of fixing this machine, however I don't know the sequence of the operation of the machine. Is a manual available describing the operation (what happens in each cycle and how to disassemble) and a diagnostic chart. It almost seems as if the brake is slightly applied or possibly a bearing that is loose or worn. I am willing to purchase a manual for this machine if one is available. I figured out how to remove top and sides( one piece), but I can't see anything obvious. Please help me.

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Joseph P.

A noisy washer can definitely cause some concern and I will be happy to help. I am adding a link below that will provide you with some information about what may be causing the problem on your washer. I hope this helps while you wait for your expert answer!

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/questions/123422-cause-metal-metal-noise-during-spin-cycle

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

There is a Do-it-Yourself manual available for this washer.

The part number is 4314044 and is available from the following link: Sears PartsDirect for about $19 dollars.

There is a spin bearing that can be causing problems in spin. You would have to remove the transmission to access the clutch and basket drive.

I can provide you with some illustrations and instructions if you don't wish to purchase the manual.

I hope this helps. Good luck on this project.

You can reply with any additional details or questions for further assistance.

Image4327800004556335207img-th

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Tim

Fred, Thank you very much for the response back. Is the manual descriptive enough to show taking apart the transmission and illustrations to disassemble trans? Is the manual for this specific washing machine or a generic one that could be used for all machines or transmissions? I am very used to GM service manuals and they are descriptive.

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Tim

Fred, I would be interested in whatever illustrations and instructions that you could supply me

Fred_crop
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Fred M expert

You won't need to take the transmission apart. You'll need to remove it. The manual does have illustations and instructions that are fairly complete. The images below is an example of what I can provide and you can always rely with any additional details or questions for further assistance.

Centinal_tran_removal

Directdrivetranreplace

Directdriveaccess

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Tim

Thank you Fred for reply back again. Would you happen to know if this service manual has a diagnostic section that explains noises? I am concerned that if I take this apart will I be able to see a bad component. Do I need to remove the tub of the machine to remove the transmission? If so, do you also have the instructions for removing the tub? Thanks again... Tim

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

The guide has a troubleshooting section and pictures to help with removing the basket and transmission. You will need to remove the basket to remove the transmission. There is one tool called a spanner wrench which would be helpful to you removing the basket. The part number for the spanner is 14218862 and can be obtained at SearsPartsDirect. The image below will show how to remove the agitator and basket. I hope this helps. Remember to unplug the washer first.

Agitator_cambolt

Direct_drive_basket_spanner_removal

Spanner1

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Tim

I did remove the spanner nut and attempted to remove the basket and it will not lift off. Could this be due to the break hanging up or something else? We have hard water here and do see the scum left by that around the outer tub. Is there some way to loosen the basket from the drive block without damaging it. The pictures included (pic #2) shows the scum in the outer tub and picture #2 and 3 shows the drive block where there is some white scum residue between the block and the inside rim edge of the basket where it should release. The tub itself has holes on the bottom that can be seen in all the pics where I can also see to the drive

Pic_1_0924111030

Pic_2_0924111031

Pic_3_0924111050

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

You can try putting some oil around the shaft. You may need two people on each side of the basket trying to rock it back and forth and pulling up at the same time.

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Tim

Fred, I can not remove the tub (basket). I have removed the transmission though. The shaft that the splined transmission shaft goes into is stuck. I believe the stuck shaft is called "Drive Basket" P/N 388952. (substitution p/n 285792). I believe that the "Drive Basket" should rotate freely in the tub/basket. Is this true? Does the Block-Drive P/N 389140 come out the bottom of the tub/basket? The Drive- Block also is stuck in the tub/basket. Can I hit the Block-Drive with a block of wood and a hammer to remove it? I am thinking about taking the washer to my shop, install a slide hammer onto the bottom end of the "Drive Basket" and get that rascal out to see why it was stuck. I think that the stuck "Drive Basket" is the problem. Is there any way that I can talk to you on the phone? My mobile # is [REDACTED]. I appreciate your help ... Tim Please note: The original content of this post was edited to remove personal contact information to protect your privacy.

Fred_crop
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Fred M expert

You can try the block of wood and hammer. The basket being stuck is likely the problem. I am not able to call you direct. I will be working the tomorrow but will be off Saturday. The basket should turn freely.

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Tim

Fred, I hit the block-drive with a block of wood and a hammer and knocked it down and the basket did come out. I am attaching photos to this. PICTURE # 1 shows block-drive and filter: a lot of corrosion. PICTURE # 2 shows grooves on shaft of drive-basket. I think the grooves are from the seal in PICTURE #3. This washer is now 10 yrs old and I am trying to determine how much money to invest in it.... please see next posting....

Washer1

Washer3

Washer4

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Tim

QUESTION: are the seals in PICTURE # 1 and PICTURE # 2 available? Thanks again for all your help.

Washer2

Washer4

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

This basket seems to be stuck worse than any I have seen. If you have something to hit the drive block go for it. Keep in mind that similar new washers cost about $350 dollars.

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Tim

Yes, it was stuck and was stubborn, but did get the basket out. Please note the 2 picture above with this next QUESTION: Are the seals in PICTURE # 1 and PICTURE # 2 (shown where pencil is) available? Thanks again for all your help.

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

I believe the seal your pointing to is the seal on top of the tub support. The 285203 seal kit is part key 24 in the image below. It is availalble for $36.94 but you need a bearing tool which is not available to install the seals and bearing. My suggestion would be to plan on replacing the tub support 280184 . It cost a little more at $92.17 dollars but it is worth the added expense. There is also a centerpost gasket that will need to be replaced. I'm still thinking by the time you replace all the parts it would be better to buy a new similar washer for about $350 dollars.

Sun12

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Tim

Fred - Is the seal at the top end of the basket drive shaft available? What do you think of the grooves on the shaft? I was thinking I could take some sand paper and just clean it up abit. Do you have a picture of the bearing tool ued to install the tub support seal? If I saw what it looks like I'm sure I can come up with something to get that seal in. We previously asked about (2) seals, you answered about the tub support seal, but missed the seal in the basket drive shaft. Again, we appreciate your help. Tim

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

The part number for the no longer available tool is 68971. I was unable to find a picture of this tool. From the pictures you sent I would say the best move would be to replace the tub support.

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Tim

Fred - Is the seal at the top end of the basket drive shaft available?

Washer2

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

The first image shows the seals for the centerpost. The 285203 kit comes with all the seals for the centerpos and is about $36 dollarst. The two seal alone are part number 8577376 and will cost around $5 dollars. The centerpost gasket is part number 383727 and is the main seal between the tub and drive shaft.

Thurs2paint

Thurs1paint

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Tim

Referencing P/N 388952 Drive Basket (substitute no. 285792) ...... There is a seal at the top of the Drive Shaft Basket. Is this seal still available? This seal seals the shaft from the transmission... Thanks

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Tim

Last question prior to ordering parts: .......................................................................... Referencing P/N 388952 Drive Basket (substitute no. 285792) ...... There is a seal at the top of the Drive Shaft Basket. Is this seal still available? This seal seals the shaft from the transmission... Thanks

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

I've been gone a few days and trying to catch up. Thanks for the repeat question. That part is called a slinger and is part number 62658. It is still available. The image below may be helpful to you.

Basket_drive

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Tim

Fred - Can you please give us the description and price of items 3-5, and 9 shown in the parts breakdown that you sent of the basket drive shaft. Also, if these parts are still available? Thank you.

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

Those parts are called shaft seals and a spacer. The link below will help you. The parts are still available.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-dryer-Parts/Model-388952/0582/0152500/10044430/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

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Tim

Thank you very much for your assistance in trying to solve our problem. I have ordered the parts that I think we will need in addition to part no. 285208 LUBRICANT. Where would you use this lubricant? Also, what type of grease is used on the inside of the seals or is this lubricant for it?

Fred_crop
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Fred M expert

The lubricant would go on the inside of the seals.

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Tim

We installed the seals and put it back together and runs good except there is a rhythmic click in the motor that was not there previously. I believe the noise is at the pump end of the motor. Do you have a parts breakdown of the motor?

Fred_crop
expert
Fred M expert

The pump does fit on the end of the motor. The motor shaft goes through the pump to mount it. The image below may be helpful to you.

W1

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