dryer does not heat anymore and keeps going and going
Providing a complete model number to your question will definitely help an expert better your search. If you would like to reply to this thread with a model number included I would be more than happy to assist you. Have a wonderful day.
Kenmore 90 plus series Mod # 11068942892
Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.Your dryer is not an average type dryer with the average type of controls. It has an electronic control board inside the console referred to as the "Evenheat" control board along with a timer and heater relay. It also uses a thermistor which is used to monitor temperature which works in conjunction with the evenheat control board. I added an image below with general information. I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer.Based on your symptom it could have one of many different component failures preventing the timer from advancing and from heating.It could have a faulty "Evenheat" control board or timer. There is a very slight possibly it's not heating because of the lack of proper voltage, faulty heating element of thermal cut off. Locate the house circuit breakers dedicated for the dryer and reset both circuit breakers by flipping them OFF and ON 2-3 times and then check the dryer for heat. If it continues to run and not heat I recommend calling a service technician. If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .
I have maytag, dryer it lost the heat .# - MD SDE305 DAYW - S/N # 18108396GC
Dara: Since your dryer is electric and the heating element required 220 volts to produce heat the first thing to check is the two house circuit breakers dedicated for the dryer. Reset both circuit breakers by flipping them both OFF and ON 2-3 times and then recheck the dryer for heat. If it continues to run and not heat then the voltage supply will need to be checked and confirmed before proceeding to test each component connected in a series circuit with the heating element for continuity using an Ohm meter. I do not recommend checking voltages unless you have experience and you feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I recommend calling for service. If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: [Sears Home Services | http://www.searshomeservices.com?sid=MMLxexpertxmerch] .
Have a kenmore gas dryer that will not heat. I just replaced the ignitor and it still does not fire up. Can you offer and suggestions??
Chuck: Without having the model number of your gas dryer I can only provide general information. You will need to disconnect each one of the components connected in the circuit to the gas valve and igniter and check them for continuity. One of them is open which is breaking the electrical circuit to the igniter. Reply with the model number and I can provide model specific information and trouble shooting assistance.
The model number is 110.76944501
Chuck: Thank you for adding the model number. You did not mention if the new igniter is glowing red or not. If it is not glowing then we must assume the igniter is not getting any voltage. If it is not glowing then it could have a faulty thermal fuse, operating thermostat, high limit thermostat or a faulty flame sensor. I recommend checking the thermal fuse first. The thermal fuse is located on the blower wheel housing and will have a solid red wire and red wire with a white stripe connected to it. Disconnect both wires and check across the two male terminals on the thermal fuse for continuity. It must measure continuity or it is faulty. Disconnect the power cord from the power source before servicing your dryer.
Ignitor does not glow. I replaced the thermal fuse and still no luck. I am going to replace the operating thermostat. Hoping for the best. What do you think??
Chuck: I recommend checking the high limit and the flame sensor too.
thanks- I will try all.
I replaced the operating thermostat,high limit thermostat, and flame sensor-still no luck. The ignitor does not glow. Now what??
Chuck: Timer switch 2 must close in order to supply voltage to the thermal fuse. The timer has RED wire which should measure 120 volts when measuring across the RED wire to BLACK wire connected to the push to start. RED is L1 voltage and the BLACK wire at the push to start switch is NEUTRAL. If there is no voltage reading across the Black and Red wire when the timer is turned to a heated setting, the timer is faulty. If it does measure voltage then it may have a faulty motor centrifugal switch. Measure across the RED and BLACK wire and let me what the voltage is. Note: If you do not feel safe and confident in checking voltages; I recommend calling a service technician.
Where is this switch located. Before the thermal fuse or by the console settings?? Please advise
Chuck: The timer switch/contact is inside the timer which is inside the console. When the timer knob is turned to a heated cycle timer contact 1 closes in order to provide voltage to the thermal fuse. The RED wire must measure voltage to Neutral.
I will test. I am assuming the dryer should be running? Please stay with me or I'll be spending Christmas at the laundramat
Chuck: The dryer does not have to be running. Set the timer to the middle of timed dry and then check the voltage across the Red wire at the timer to the Black or Blue wire at the Push to Start switch. If voltage is not present, replace the timer.
Not getting any voltage-I am replacing timer. Hope this does it.. THanks
Chuck: Based on your last statement; the timer is faulty if there is no voltage measured beteen the RED wire and Black or Blue wires at the pust to start switch.
thanks-appreciate all your help. I'll let you know if it works..
still no luck. ignitor does not glow.. I'm thinking about changing the coils on the gas valve. What do you think??
Chuck: Replacing the solenoid coils is not going to help if the igniter is not getting the voltage needed to make it glow. The timer switch 2 is supposed to close and send voltage to the thermal fuse, operating thermostat, high limit, flame sensor and one lead of the igniter. The other lead of the igniter is neutral which is supplied once the motor starts. Once the igniter gets the voltage and neutral supply it should glow if it's Okay.
I replaced the coils before I saw your answer. I replaced a whole lot of parts and finally went back to the thermal fuse. tried bypassing the fuse by linking the two contacts together and finnally got the ignitor to fire. So i replaced the thermal fuse again and all is working fine. Thanks for the leads-I am going to get another meter since I lost confidences in my old unit. Appreciate all you did. I really like this new feature of talking to an expert.
Chuck: I'm happy to see that you found the problem. Thank you for using Manage My Life.