Can you please help me with my ice maker? It won't make any ice.

I have a Kenmore side/side refrigerator, model 363.9565484 which is no longer producing ice. I have good water flow at the water dispenser, but there is no water or ice in the ice dispenser. I called sears home repair on Nov 24. The repair man turned off the water supply and turned it back on which gave much better water flow. I guess the self piercing water value was party clogged. The ice maker then made ice, but this past week it has stopped completely. I still have good water flow to the water dispenser. Do I have a block some where in the line that feeds the ice dispenser or is there some other problem? Note: There is no filter on this unit.

Default_avatar
expert
James

Having ice during the holiday is almost a necessity in most home. I did some research at managemylife.com and found an excellent article that I hope will shed some light on the problem until your expert can assist you. I attached the link below.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/articles/authored/keep-your-fridge-well-watered

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

I would first remove the ice bin and look or feel inside the mold of the icemaker to see if it is full of ice. If the ice sensing arm is down (in the on position) and the icemaker is full of ice, there is a failure inside the icemaker and the icemaker should be replaced. The part number for a replacement icemaker is WR30X10093 and the cost is $128.94. You can order parts at [www.partsdirect.com?sid=MMLxexpertxmerch].

If there is no ice in the icemaker, look at the fill tube on the rear of the icemaker. If the fill tube is frozen up the icemaker can't fill. You can defrost the fill tube with a hair dryer. If the fill tube freezes again you should replace the water valve.

The water valve on the rear of the refrigerator supplies water to the water dispenser and the icemaker. Since the water dispenser is working, the only line that could be blocked runs up the back of the cabinet and attaches to the fill tube for the icemaker. The water valve could be bad and not sending water to the icemaker.

Default_avatar
user
rduri

I checked there is no ice in the mold and the arm is down.

Default_avatar
user
rduri

The tube in the back looks and feels frozen---It's very hard. How much for a water valve, and is it difficult to replace?

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

The water valve is mounted in the compressor compartment on the rear of the range. The water line from the house plumbing attaches to the water valve. To replace the water valve, turn the water off at the valve. Remove the 2 screws holding the water valve to the cabinet. Remove the incoming water line and the 2 outgoing lines. Disconnect the wires from the 2 solenoids. Be sure to put the wires on the new valve in the same order they were removed. This is pretty easy and should not take long. Before replacing the valve, melt the ice out of the fill tube and wait 24 hours to see if the icemaker makes ice. There might be something wrong inside the icemaker instead of the valve.

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

I forgot the valve part number and price. The part number of the water valve is WR57X10051, and the price is $40.77. You can order the valve at www.partsdirect.com?sid=MMLxexpertxmerch.

Default_avatar
user
rduri

Ok, I finally had some time and did as you suggested, however, after removing the ice bin and getting a much closer look, I believe the tube was not frozen. I used a hair dryer anyway just to make sure. I then took a look at the valve which does look easy to replace. I also found my parts manuel for this refrigerator (refrigerator purchased Aug 1997). The manuel gives a part number of WR57X0119 which is different from the part number you gave me. I also noticed a number stamped on the water valve, WR57X111. Which number do I use to place an order???

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

The original part number for the water valve was WR57X0119. The part number has changed to WR57X10051. Remember the problem can also be the icemaker. You can test the water valve by swapping the wires on the water valve solenoids. Open the freezer door and hold the light switch plunger in, press a glass against the cradle for water. If the water runs into the icemaker, the water valve is good and the icemaker is bad.

Default_avatar
user
rduri

Thanks for the information. I did not switch the wires on the solenoid. I did order a new water valve. I figure the unit is almost 14yrs old and putting new water valve in is not a bad thing. If this does not work, it has to be the ice maker itself, correct? What is the part number for that?

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

The part number for a replacement icemaker is WR30X10093 and the cost is $128.94. I hope the water valve solves the problem.

Default_avatar
user
Beverly

I have a Kenmore model #363.9554780. Purchased it in November, 1995. It quit producing ice last month. Husband and I checked the ice trays. No ice or water. Water does come through the door water dispenser. We disconnected the water valve and he blew air through the hose leading to the ice maker. The air came through loud and clear. We didn't do the test with the solenoid since one was 35V and the other was 15V. We were afraid of causing an electrical issue then. We decided it must be the valve. We ordered the replacement valve from searspartsdirect.com. It is part number WR57X10051. Our old valve was marked WR57X111. I believe searspartsdirect.com said it was WR57X119. Anyway, we received the new valve in the mail. We cannot use it though. The old valve had threaded connections for the lines leading to the water dispenser and the ice maker. This new valve does not have threaded connectors. The blue plastic just ends and there are flat white pieces with a hole in the center inserted into the place where the threaded water connectors should be. I contacted searspartsdirect.com and they are having to contact the manufacturer which in this case is GE. I went to GE's website to see if I could search there knowledge base for an anwer. No luck. I figure there must be some adapter piece that should have been sent with this. If it was another piece that I should have ordered to go with it then it sure would be nice for searspartsdirect.com to note that on the page where the water valve is ordered. I looked at the diagram and there are two pieces 804 and 807 that look like they go on the bottom of the valve; but by looking at the picture I can't tell how they would help with installation. Do you have any ideas?

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

Water valves have changed. It has been confusing for technicians and customers. There should have been some instructions with the water valve explaining the new connections. To install the new water valve you need to cut the tubing behind the nuts and ferrules. Be careful to not cut too much line off and make it too short. The cut needs to be smooth and straight. Clean the tubing with a damp cloth before installing. Insert the tube into the water valve fitting and push it in as far as it will go. The tube will "bottom out" about 1/2 inch in the fitting. I am sending you an image showing how to disconnect and connect a coupling. The same information applies to the water valve.

John_guess_fitting

Default_avatar
user
Beverly

Thank you for the information. It is frustrating because the instructions that came with the replacement water valve were not for the valve but for a thermostat. UGH! In the meantime though, I did a general search on the net for the replacement part number. Wish I'd done it Saturday when we were trying to install the new valve. Several sites that also sell the part provide information that the new valve has new quick connectors. All I have to do is cut off the existing nuts and insert the plastic tubes into the end of the valve. It is a compression fitting. To me this is only a quick connection if the proper instructions had been enclosed in the packaging and the threads of my existing nuts were stripped. Neither of these were the case for me. I appreciate though they were trying to make it a one size fits all solution for others. I installed the new valve last night and there is still no ice this morning. I still am getting water through the door. I am going to check again inside of the freezer compartment for a frozen line inside. There is no water in the line up the back of the cabinet. If no luck there, I will double check the circuits. Then I guess if it isn't any of those things I will see if the ice maker from the old fridgedair in the garage will fit into this Kenmore. Otherwise, I guess I'm looking at buying a new ice maker. Do you agree? Thanks for you help with this. We usually are pretty good DIYer's and can find most info by searching the knowledge bases available. It is good to know that we can consult with someone who knows since this has not been as smooth of a project as we expected.

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

Beverly, If you don't find the fill tube frozen up inside the freezer, it would seem the problem is inside the icemaker. I hope the icemaker in the other refrigerator will work in this one.

Default_avatar
user
Beverly

Well the verdict is in. Reversing the power on the solenoid, opening the door, activating the closed door switch, and depressing the water dispenser button on the front of the door confirmed that water can get into the ice maker. I did this after having applied a hair dryer to the back of the freezer where the fill tube comes in. If no ice in the next few hours, it 's time to take apart the old fridge. YEAH! Good news is that the old valve did have a partial blockage so I didn't waste money on the new valve. We have hard water here in KY and after 16 years it was bound to have some calcium and lime deposits in it. Thanks again for all of your help.

Default_avatar
user
Steve

I have this same problem on my Kenmore model 106.55242400, I had water from the dispenser but no ice. It was purchased in 2004 and was working great until one day no ice. I'm an Electro/Mechanical Technician by trade so I tend to look for the easy stuff first and this time it paid off. I popped off the front white plastic cover of the ice maker and the timer wheel fell out. One of the "prongs" that hold it in broke off, and I am attempting to glue everything back together. Not the best environment for super glue! It seems to be working so far, beats having to purchase a new one.

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

Good luck Steve, I think you will get it fixed.

Default_avatar
user
Steve

I'm hoping for the best! I didn't think anyone was one here..............

Default_avatar
user
Beverly

Steve, I'm glad yours was only the timer wheel. I had opened the front cover also. All wheels and prongs in place. I don't own a multimeter to test the circuits. I probably should have ordered that instead of the new ice maker. Anyway if you can't glue your wheel back together you can probably order one from www.searspartsdirect.com. Good luck. I just installed the new icemaker a few hours ago and am waiting for my first haul of ice. The replacement was only slightly difficult to install since its' wiring is made for GE models. It comes with a connecter cord to fit the Kenmore; but, it makes the cord so long that it interferes with the icemaker and you cannot put your ice bucket/auger unit back into it's place. The instructions make no mention of the cord or how to install it without it interfering. I had to take the plastic divider off of the back wall of the ice compartment (behind it is the fill tube and fan blade), reversed the way the internal wiring cord was mounted to the sidewall of the freezer making it easier to push the cord behind the icemaker, plugged in the connecter cord, neatly tucked the cord behind the icemaker under the fill tube and away from the fan blade, and reinstalled the plastic divider. Part of the plastic divider at the bottom left is bent forward a slightly because of where the power cord is now mounted to the sidewall of the freezer. I might cut off and inch or two of it so that it doesn't do this. Changing the mounting of the power cord was necessary so that my ice bucket/auger unit would slide back into place. I read alot of complaints on various websites about this replacement icemaker and this situation so I thought I'd provide the info for anyone who is having trouble.

Default_avatar
user
Edward

Hello. I'm having a similar problem and as a casualty of 2008 (no work) I have to be able to fix this myself. Last winter I turned off the ice maker figuring I'd save a little energy. I've turned it back on and ... nada. I do get water from the dispenser. The fill hose was frozen solid so I defrosted the entire unit over-night. Still nothing. The thing that concerns me most is that the wall between the fridge and the freezer is very hot to the touch. Not the wall inside the freezer or the fridge but the part that faces front, where the seals of both doors touch. Understand? Any suggestion, warnings?

Default_avatar
user
Beverly

Edward, I did a search on managemylife.com and came up with several similar situations that you might find helpful to read while you are waiting for your expert to respond. The link to the search results is below. Good luck. I am hoping that you just need to clean your condenser coils or something easy like that.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/search_v2?q=the+wall+between+the+fridge+and+the+freezer+is+very+hot+to+the+touch

Default_avatar
user
Edward

OK, here is what I did and maybe some of you out there are spending money when you do not have to. I looked around on the web and gathered several possible solutions to my problem. I checked the solenoids but I couldn't reverse them because the connectors were different. I checked the water line up the back of my fridge and the upper half seemed to be a different color than the bottom half. There is a little white thing-a-ma-jig there. I twisted, turned, and pulled on it to see if it would come apart because I thought it might be clogged. I couldn't get it apart. I took the ice maker out. I took the ice maker's on/off switch out. I took the receiver part out. The ice maker switch seems to work like a garage door opener in that there is a beam of light (I suspect) that tells the ice maker when it is full or whatever. Anyway, what this boils down to is I took all the switches out, and inspected all the connections and water lines. Disgusted since I couldn't find anything I put it all back together and went to pick up a friend at the airport. After dropping her off I went dancing for a little bit and when I got home I sat down to watch a little TV before going to bed (3 a.m.) Right before going to bed I heard my fridge go "grrrr clump clump." The ice maker was working!!!! So, I'm saying you may just have bad connections, corrosion much like a car battery. So, take the thing apart, wiggle stuff around, clean your connections and that may clear up your problem. So far it has cycled through 3 or 4 times. So far, so good.

Default_avatar
user
Steve

Super glue failed, now it's completely broke off. I need to find out if I need the complete ice maker (#4317943) or if I can just get the front plate/motor assembly (#626653) which is called the "Module Assembly". Does anyone know if I can just get parts for the ice maker instead of just the whole machine?

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

Steve, you can buy the module assembly. The part number is 8201515 and the price is $91.28. The part number for a complete icemaker is 4317943, and the price is $125.89. I recommend replacing the complete icemaker. Sorry the super glue didn't work.

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

Edward, I am sending some images with instructions for testing the optic sensors in refrigerators with ice in the door. I hope this helps someone.

Testing_diagnostics_on_2003_idi_ref

Testing_diagnostics_on_2003_idi_ref_1

Default_avatar
user
Steve

I have ICE again!! I purchased an ice maker off EBay for $39.95 plus $11 for shipping from "senecarivertrading", what a deal!!

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

Great Steve. You did good.

Default_avatar
user
Sandra

I had to replace the water valve similar to the first part of this thread. I cut off the nuts on the water lines as suggested and all was well putting the newer version of the valve into my kenmore side-by-side, until I connected the wiring. The 35w side fits fine but the prongs on the 15w side of the new water valve are smaller and the connector slips right off. I'd appreaciate any suggestions. Perhaps i need an adapter? If so, not sure what I would search on or what it would be called. Thanks!

Default_avatar
user
Sandra

btw the old valve was WR57X111 and the new valve is also WR57X10051.

Default_avatar
user
Lisa Ramos

WARNING.....before you have SEARS to your home for repair/service you might want to reconsider after reading my post. BE AWARE OF FLAT RATE FEES! My ice maker on my Kenmore Refrig./Freezer stopped producing ice. I phoned for service and was explained about the $65.OO fee "just to come out" to diagnose the problem, which I was ok with. Upon arrival the service tech had it diagnosed in under 5 min. , which turned out to be the Module. I was given a price for a new vs rebuilt, which was alarming to say the least! $158.87 for a REBUILT module. I then asked the fee for installation....alarming as well. $217.75 (this included the tax AND the 65.00 service fee). I quickly did the math and realized it was $152.75 to install. At this point I asked the tech how long the job was going to take for this amount of money.....he LAUGHED and never appropriately answered my question and ultimately was my fault for not pursuing for the correct answer !!! After authorizing the job to be done, the tech went to his van for the part.....had the broken Module out and the "rebuilt" one installed in LESS than 10 MINUTES!!!! Total time involved, including diagnosis was UNDER 15 min. for a total bill of $376.62. With all said...we were grossly overcharged for services and after calling and emailing many different contacts, we were reimbursed for the $65.00 service fee and were explained about their "FLAT RATE FEE"...based on the JOB...NOT THE TIME!!!LOL Charging $152.75 for 10 minutes....SHAME ON YOU SEARS. We will never purchase another SEARS product again and others should think twice before utilizing their services. Your best bet....call a local repair service!

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

Hello Lisa Ramos. Thanks for that heads up on the current service pricing. Sears recently changed their flat rate pricing policies. They used to charge $130 for a trip and the labor to fix the problem. The current pricing structure for labor begins with a diagnostic trip of $65 to $75 in most areas. That initial trip fee can vary based on the geographic region and the type of appliance being repaired. For that initial trip fee, the appliance will be diagnosed and you will receive an estimate for the repair that includes parts and labor. The labor fee is not based on the time that the repair will take. It is based on the job that will be performed. I apologize for the Sears Technician laughing about the amount of time that the repair would take. That was inappropriate. I agree that you should be careful when scheduling service by Sears or any other service provider. If you are confident in your ability to perform minor repairs, I recommend that you visit our Manage My Life website and try to get some troubleshooting/repair advice before calling a technician. We always try to help you fix an appliance problem yourself when possible. We have a good success rate with most ice maker problems. There are times when a service technician is necessary. I am sad to hear that you will no longer be our customer. I hope that one day we can turn that situation around. If you ever need more help with an appliance, please allow us to help you through this website. We are always standing by to assist you. By the way, we will help you with any appliance, even if you did not buy it at Sears. Thanks.

Default_avatar
user
Sandra

JimmyK, no suggestions on my post (relevant to the thread) just prior to Lisa's rant about service charges?

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

Sandra, I am very sorry, I forgot about you. The WR57X10051 water valve should have come with 2 adapter terminals. If you still have the package it came in, look for 2 terminals about 3/4-1 inch long. These terminals are 1/4 inch male to 1/8 inch female spade terminals. If the adapters are gone, try Radio Shack or an electronic supply store. If you can't find the adapters, you can buy some 1/8 inch female spade terminals and cut the old terminals off the wires and crimp the new ones on. If you have questions, reply and I promise not to forget you again. I am sending an image so you can see what the adapter terminals look like.

Water_valve_for_refrigerator

Default_avatar
user
Sandra

I saw the extra bag, but it was already open on top. The parts were so small i didn't see them and thought the extra parts bag just came along for the ride. I looked again and found the adapters in the bag, since it was an open bag I'm lucky the little adapters weren't lost. Thanks!

Jimmy_resized1
expert
Jimmy K expert

Thats great Sandra. Thanks for using Manage My life.

Headshot
expert
Lindsay S expert

Lisa Ramos: A customer support representative has made multiple attempts to contact you at the email address you used to register for this site. We would very much like to resolve your complaint about your experience. Please let us know if there is a better way to get in touch with you.

Default_avatar
user
Lisa Ramos

LINDSAY: Ironically I did not receive ONE email from a SEARS representative regarding this complaint asking to resolve this matter. I did however, receive several emails asking if "my question had been answered" and I replied to "survey" questions asking "how the service was on this site" and again explained my disappointment. I also responded to a survey call after my Service appt. and explained to them how disappointed I was. I find it puzzling that you responded saying a customer support representative has made multiple attempts. I believe I have made MULTIPLE attempts, but SEARS did not seem interested in a resolution, even after I explained to them of my intent to post my experience on this site. I would be happy to speak to you regarding this dispute. If you look up my acct. under LISA RAMOS, you should have my contact numbers and in fact, this info should have been available to you if I was NOT responding to your emails!!!! If you can not locate this info, the claim number is #5898187. Hope to hear from you soon.

Default_avatar
user
Lisa Ramos

LINDSAY: Ironically I did not receive ONE email from a SEARS representative regarding this complaint asking to resolve this matter. I did however, receive several emails asking if "my question had been answered" and I replied to "survey" questions asking "how the service was on this site" and again explained my disappointment. I also responded to a survey call after my Service appt. and explained to them how disappointed I was. I find it puzzling that you responded saying a customer support representative has made multiple attempts. I believe I have made MULTIPLE attempts, but SEARS did not seem interested in a resolution, even after I explained to them of my intent to post my experience on this site. I would be happy to speak to you regarding this dispute. If you look up my acct. under LISA RAMOS, you should have my contact numbers and in fact, this info should have been available to you if I was NOT responding to your emails!!!! If you can not locate this info, the claim number is #5898187. Hope to hear from you soon.

Default_avatar
user
Lisa Ramos

Today is April 14th...still have not heard a word from a Customer Service Representative and my email is working just fine!!! LOL SEARS.....who are you trying to fool? Your comment above was made as an attempt to pursue customers that you have tried to reach me. This is NOT the case.........

Headshot
expert
Lindsay S expert

Hi Lisa, please check your spam folder. We have repeatedly tried contacting your AOL email address, I have suspicion they are being blocked and that's why you haven't received them. We were able to locate a telephone number based on the claim number you included above and we will next contact you there. Any additional contact information you'd like to send my way, please do - you can email me at lselder@searshc.com.

Default_avatar
user
Jan

On the freezer screen it reads: Er 1F and it is not making any ice. The model #795.71024.01-0. can you please tell me what to do? I live in the county and it is expensive to get a technician to come to my home. Can you direct me to a manual for this fridge? Thank you. Jan

related